When Polybion, the innovative Mexican biotech start-up, won the WDCD Redesign Everything Challenge with Celium™, a pioneering bio-fabricated alternative to leather, a seed of collaboration was planted. Dutch pocket wear brand Secrid, renowned for sustainably crafted wallets, recognized the opportunity. Last year, they began a mentorship with Secrid’s founders and were invited to Secrid’s Talent Podium at Dutch Design Week. Now, Celium is undergoing research and testing to see if this next-gen material could one day become part of Secrid’s collection.
To understand what makes this collaboration so promising—and complex—we spoke to Axel Gómez Ortigoza and Alexis Gómez Ortigoza, co-founders of Polybion, and Laura de Ridder, and Maartje Janse from Secrid’s sustainability and impact teams. Together, they offered a behind-the-scenes look at how innovation, persistence, and shared values are helping them reimagine the future of materials.
Looking back, what made this collaboration feel like a good fit for both of you?
Axel and Alexis, co-founders of Polybion, explained that “from the beginning, it felt like a natural alignment. Secrid’s commitment to innovation, quality, and sustainability deeply resonates with our philosophy at Polybion. We are both design-driven companies that believe materials tell stories, and we are excited by the idea of growing, not extracting, those stories. Secrid’s openness to experiment with a completely new material category like Celium showed us they were ready to pioneer. Their local, detail-oriented, and thoughtful approach mirrors the way we operate—it’s rare to find that level of shared intention.”
Laura from Secrid elaborated on why Celium stood out: “We were interested in Celium because it has the potential to be our second alternative to leather that consists almost entirely of natural materials. Its unique look, due to its biological nature, makes every piece distinct, like a marbled structure. It is different from the current styles in our collection.” Maartje adds: “In addition to their unique material characteristics, Axel and Alexis have a unique entrepreneurial background and interest in biotech. As impact entrepreneurs, you have to be resilient—that’s definitely what they are.”
Experimental materials often face skepticism when entering established industries like fashion. What has been the biggest challenge in trying to bring Celium from the lab into the market?
Axel and Alexis pointed out: “One of the biggest challenges has been shifting perceptions of what Celium is. Because it is neither leather nor plastic, people often try to compare it to familiar materials. Bridging that gap requires education, trust, and close collaboration. Another challenge is performance validation—brands need to know a material meets their standards, which requires time, testing, and iteration. Partnerships like the one with Secrid help us move from potential to proof.”
Polybion, as you team up with big and renowned brands like GANNI, what’s been the biggest hurdle in getting an experimental material like Celium taken seriously by the industry?
“Trust.” Axel and Alexis explain: “The biggest hurdle has been earning trust. The industry is used to working with established materials that have decades of performance data. With Celium, we are introducing something entirely new, so we have to prove it can meet aesthetic, functional, and technical standards. That means investing time in testing, co-creating with partners, and being transparent about what works and what we are still improving. It is a long game, but we are building something that lasts.”
Laura provided practical context: “Currently, Celium still requires a minimal synthetic coating—around 1%—to ensure sufficient strength. Alexis and Axel strive toward a 100% organic and biodegradable material. With our potential collaboration, we hope to help them move in that direction.”
What has surprised you most so far in the process of testing Celium for real-world products—whether in terms of performance, production, or creative potential?
Axel and Alexis shared their pleasant surprise: “What surprised us most is how quickly designers recognized Celium’s creative potential. Even though it is new, partners like Secrid have told us they are inspired by its unique texture, lightness, and versatility in finishes. They see it not as a substitute but as an opportunity to explore new aesthetics. Technically, we were positively surprised by its early test performance, both lab tests and prototype tests. It’s shown great adaptability in various applications. Seeing brands use it not just because it is sustainable, but because it sparks ideas, has been incredibly rewarding.”
Laura, you mentioned doing checks to see if Celium can be used on your wallets. Are we talking lab coats and microscopes, or something more hands-on?
Laura described Secrid’s detailed testing process: “We use testing machines in our own material lab. We evaluate thickness, abrasion resistance, tear strength, flexing resistance, color fastness to rubbing, and fraying.” But technical performance isn’t the only aspect being explored. Secrid is also crafting sample wallets to assess how the material feels, folds, and ages in use, Maartje explains.
What are the next steps for the development of Celium as a material?
Axel and Alexis explained their next steps: “The next steps are refinement and expansion. We’ll continue closely collaborating with brands to test Celium in real products and gather feedback. Simultaneously, we’re modifying our bacterial strains to explore new patterns, textures, and properties—essentially letting the bacteria co-design with us. We’re also tailoring Celium for applications beyond fashion, ensuring it performs at the highest level. Our focus remains on making the material better, smarter, and more versatile, staying true to our core principle: growing materials that do not cost the Earth.”
If this collaboration succeeds, what impact do you hope it will have on your own companies, on the use of biomaterials, or on the industry at large?
Laura emphasized a broader goal: “We aim to raise consumer awareness about conscious choices when buying products, thinking about materials, and how and where they are produced. Most people don’t even know what the products they buy are made of—a better world starts in your pocket.”
What’s one piece of advice you’d give others trying to push sustainable materials forward?
“Be patient but relentless.” Axel and Alexis said, “Creating new materials takes time, and convincing the world to adopt them takes even longer. Keep learning, adapting, and don’t be afraid to challenge the standards you aim to replace.”
Laura stressed the value of collaboration: “Keep going and collaborate. Find partners who align with your mission.”
Maartje encouraged industry support: “Provide time, money, and resources to innovative, impact-driven startups like Polybion, giving them the chance to scale their innovations and create real change.”
_____
This year’s design innovators joining the WDCD Accelerator have just been announced. Meet the winners at WDCD Live Amsterdam 2025, where they will share their story on the mainstage.
This story is part of What Design Can Do’s collaboration with Secrid as part of the WDCD Accelerator.